Official Luthiers Forum!

It seems that the trend these days is to leave the finger board clear of markers on steel strings. I was wondering if that is really true. Please consider you are building a standard model guitar for a friend or for sale.

Thanks for you help with this.

_________________
Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

On my standard model I use Slotted Diamond MOP fret markers, with the
initials of the musician on the 12th fret.
Andy

_________________
Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

I have used pearl and abalone markers so far.
I'm planning on something differant on the next.
I haven't decided what yet!

_________________
Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

I selected 'only side markers', but that's not quite true: on guitars that aren't getting 'special treatment', I tend to do my 'signature' V logo on 12th fret, and pearl side dots, nothing else on the fingerboard. I like the plain, sober look it provides, and I'm not wild about regular dots. I have just ordered a bunch for those friends who really can't do without 'em and want a guitar built.

I voted for only side markers, but in reality if there was a place to vote for no markers at all that's where I would put it. I build for myself and don't feel the need to tell me where the 12th fret is now, I know it's sort of just there! So, even though I build mainly steel strings, I vote with the classical guys no markers at all.

Colin

_________________
I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Colin,

I make 12,13 14 and 16 fret body join guitars and without the 12 fret side dots to remind me sometimes the geography can get a little bit hazy. Mind you after the first couple of slip ups I suspect you would adjust pretty quickly. If you play a lot with a capo on then you have to do this anyway.

_________________
Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

On my last neck (currently still building) I cut 5mm pearl slotted diamonds into four equal tiny (approx. 2mm) solid squares. These were inlayed as diamonds on the fingerboard surface near the top edge of the fingerboard - rather asymmetric looking. This was on frets 3,5,7,9,12(body join) only.

I used cutoff 3mm brass tube for the side dots - filled with 2mm pearl dots ... yes it may someday tarnish but I sealed it very well & it looks pretty cool.

Skip

I have used 2mm fret markers and I think that also has an elegant look.

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

[QUOTE=Dave White] Colin,

I make 12,13 14 and 16 fret body join guitars and without the 12 fret side dots to remind me sometimes the geography can get a little bit hazy. Mind you after the first couple of slip ups I suspect you would adjust pretty quickly. If you play a lot with a capo on then you have to do this anyway.[/QUOTE]

Dave I build 12, 14 fret guitars and 9fret lutes, I play a lot in altered tunings, therefore use a capo a fair bit, neck markers would just be confusing. Besides you don't see them on a violin etc and they don't have a little red dot on a piano's middle C. You just learn where they are!

They probably do need them on banjos though, you've seen Deliverance! Oh and dreds too

ColinColin S38770.5425578704

_________________
I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Std models I use MOP dots, Upgrade Std models I use Abalone diamonds 14mm and 2 5mm at the 12th. custom models I use what ever the client wants. That is doable anyway

Oh no,no,no....
you need lots and lots of inlay there; On the fretboard,
on the headstock, maybe the heel, the tuners, the end pin....Heck, anyone ever inlay there case?

It's the old saying,"...in the eye of the beholder".

I built a solid body electric once with a Macasser ebony fretboard that had a strong quilt to it.It was the only time I had ever seen a board this nice.
I left it bare, for a few months, but always thought it looked, well... bare.
I chose a minimalist approach and only added some .047 X .5 inch strips on the bass side, parallel to the frets. In my opinion, it made it look complete, along the lines of my reaction upon seeing my own headstock with it's first logo!

_________________
Paul Bordeaux
http://www.bordeauxinlay.com

You need to leave the fingerboard bare so everyone will focus on those REALLY fancy headstocks... right?   

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Load'em up with so much pearl that it makes the guitar sound like "tink" when you play it!

Then we'll look at that headstock issue brock...

C.Lavin

_________________
www.handcraftinlay.com

2mm dots on the side for me...

_________________
I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

5 mm shell dots or diamonds on the FB & 1/16" aluminum welding rod for the side markers. Aluminum looks great under finish & sands at the same rate as Ebony. It might be hard to get the aluminum dust out of the pores on a Rosewood FB... haven't tried it yet. My next build is a fairly traditional Parlour guit with a rosewood FB. I think i'll seal it before installing the dots.
3,5,7,9,12 (double) & 15... Plus 19 on a cutaway.Daniel M38771.197037037